The Isles of Scilly had been tempting us for a few years and the recent TV series about “An Island Parish” made the islands all the more appealing. But a closer look at any chart of the islands givesthe impression that even to draw close would be dangerous. In foulweather that would most definitely be true.
Anyway we sat off on Saturday 30th May 2009 bound for the Isles leaving behind our very own isles in Skerries, Co. Dublin. The boatis a Moody 29, “Blue Air” and crew was made up of Eric Mason, Con Bissett and myself, Brian Lennon. Our first leg brought us to Arklowwhere a very welcoming club got our trip off to a very positive start.Next stop Rosslare! Oops! Not a place to go except in emergencies.Virtually impossible to go ashore even to get diesel due to port security.
We would have preferred to do coastal hopping down the eastern side of the Irish sea but the tides were out of sync with our wishes and so it was handier to plan an anti-clockwise course going down the Irish coast and returning via Cornwall.
On Monday 1st June we set off on a southerly course of 150 nm for the Isles of Scilly. Weather was perfect, too perfect, with little or no wind. But this meant we could make the long sea crossing and night passage in relative safety. We motored most of the way but did manage some hours of beautiful sailing in the company of dolphins and a blood-red sunset. Our AIS system revealed that there were lots of fishing boats within 20 miles of our location at all times so that, in the event of an emergency, we would have some backup.
On longer legs we kept a watch system of 2 hours on, 4 hours off. At night we made sure there were two persons topsides at all times for extra safety. Even numbers aboard make for easier watch systems but I hadn’t the heart to throw one of the crew overboard just to even up the numbers!
Early morning of 2nd June we got our first glimpse of the islands lying flat on the horizon. Before sun-up the aerial mast on St.Mary’s, the light-house on St. Martin’s, the Wolf Light house and the Seven Stones Light gave firm navigation aids over and above the GPS. But just at dawn all the lights went out – together! It was an eery feeling and seemed a bit penny-pinching as visual nav aids would have been useful for a further hour of the half-light.
But all was well and we opted for the safest approach, down the eastside of the islands and up St. Mary’s sound. This is the route used by the Scillonian, the ferry from Penzance. Even so it is vital to study the island’s coastal pilotage in advance as there are many places well-designed for boat sinking!
Tired after over 24 hours at sea we struggled to tie up on a visitor’s mooring and, true to form, just as the last knot was completed a voice rang out, “Oy! You can’t moor there! It’s private!” We didn’t argue even though it was clearly in the public section and we found out from the same gent that, as a bilge keeler, we could go alongside the peer. It would cost a few quid extra but proved to be well worth it.
Go to the Isles of Scilly (they don’t like to be called the Scilly Isles) in a fin keeler and (1) you will need to moor out in the bay,(2) use the dingy at all times and (3) have a very uncomfortable time if the wind gets up. Go in a bilge keeler and snuggle up to the wall! Believe me it is better all round! Hugh Town on St. Mary’s is a delight of small streets, fascinating shops and bars, good restaurants and a generally friendliness amongst natives and visitors alike. We hired bikes for the afternoon and toured the small roads of St. Mary’s stopping for a swim in Old Town where the water was as cold as it was clean.
We heard about Green Bay on the isle of Bryher, a bay well suited to bilge keelers and where nobody tried to charge you for anchoring. So we braved the Tresco flats and all sorts of uncharted rocks and shallows to get there. It was worth it. Bryher has a calmness of its own with only 80 inhabitants. We dined at the Vine Café where one sitting of one meal is provided each night. Very tasty.
Back at St. Mary’s Garry Owens arrived in “Rockabill” together with his wife Frances and friend Roger. Sharing the bilge keel faith we were able to moor together along the wall and together we all set out to explore new places of refreshment!
We had hoped to do trips to other islands in our own boats but the weather turned and we opted for a tour boat trip to Tresco. It was nice but seemed very commercial (£10 for the gardens) after the rugged simplicity of Bryher.Another day of heavy wind found us killing time around Hugh Town and then as the weather cleared “Rockabill” and “Blue Air” set off together for St. Ives in Cornwall. By the way, the Scillonians will tell you Cornwall is Cornwall and Scilly is Scilly. So there! The crossing, in relatively calm conditions, was lumpy enough but we were glad to pass Long Ships with lots of sea clearance.
St. Ives is a gem … but it’s not really for fin keelers. Lovely food and atmosphere in “Hobbler’s” right on the harbour. We left Rockabill and Co. in St. Ives and headed north for Padstow anchored briefly in Newquay to have lunch and give time for the tide to fill in Padstow.If you like loud music playing on large speakers on the beach you will like Newquay.
We had some beautiful sailing as we approached Padstow. This has to be the best run little port in the business. Once inside the gate you moor right in the heart of the town. Marina fees were the lowest we encountered. There are no extra costs for the excellent showers and WiFi is extended to berth holders free. The town with its old-world feel is charming. Advice: go to Padstow and stay a few days at least!
We sailed from there to Milford Haven, a straight run across the Bristol Channel in the occasional company of dolphins and puffins. My good friend Malcolm sails out of Milford and it was he who recommended Dale. Now there’s a place to visit. You can overnight on the club pontoon; there’s even a floating one out in the bay for those of the fin keel persuasion. Try to reach Dale on a night when the club has its resident chef on duty. The food was so good we threatened to kidnap the chef; after all, wasn’t St. Patrick a Welshman? In the absence of club food the little pub alongside is very good too. Dale is special.
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Then it was time to sail out of Milford and head across the Irish Sea where we made landfall at Wicklow just in time to have supper in the town.
Next morning it was a relatively short hop up the coast and back to Skerries. Would I do it again? You bet . . . but I would allow more than the two weeks space we had so that I could spend more time around the islands in Scilly and more time in St. Ives and in Padstow and in Dale.
Recommended Navigation and Pilotage Aids:
Admiralty Leisure Chart: SC 1178
Admiralty Leisure Folio Set: 5603
Yachting Monthly’s West Country Cruising Companion by Mark Fishwick
A Sailor’s Guide to the Isles of Scilly by Peter Kyne
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